Jump rings resemble tiny circles but act more like small springs. The orientation in which they are opened and closed determines the appearance and quality of the seam, as well as the strength of the connection. Jump rings often are underestimated in beginner jewelry making because they are perceived as less significant than beads, chain, or a charm or pendant. Yet, a poorly closed or twisted jump ring can leave an earring hanging incorrectly or can cause a clasp to dislodge from a bracelet.
The best practice is to open jump rings in a side-to-side motion, not outwardly away from one another. Grab one side of the ring with flat-nose pliers and the other side with chain-nose pliers. Gently pull the jump ring ends outward until they open only slightly (rather than pulling the rings apart in a circular fashion). The easiest way to do this is to bring one hand toward you and away from your hand with your other pliers. Once the jump ring has opened just wide enough to accept a clasp, pendant bail, charm, or chain link, release your hands. This approach helps to keep the ring as circular as possible, rather than stretching it and deforming it into an oval shape.
Pulling the ring ends outward causes the ring metal to stretch and causes the ring to open unevenly, forming an oval that makes it difficult to perfectly close the seam again. Rings are easier to open than to close, so once a jump ring has been opened, you may think that when you close the ring the seam will be neat, but in reality it is easy to leave tiny gaps when the ring looks closed from certain angles. These tiny gaps can easily snag fibers in clothing or jewelry threads, as well as hair or fabric. Additionally, if the seam does not sit perfectly flush and closed, it makes for a less than ideal and secure connection, particularly around a chain link, clasp, or other component that may be moving around during wear.
If you have never opened jump rings sideways, start practicing with scrap jump rings and use caution with a flat bench mat to prevent them from rolling across the floor, and then check the finished ring after opening it sideways and compare it with another open jump ring that has not been pulled apart. Make sure it does not look like an oval, that the end pieces are aligned perfectly, and that when you run your finger lightly over the seam it is smooth with no bumps and the two end pieces lie level. It is better to do a few ring tests than to rush open jump rings before you learn how to do them without ruining them.
To close the jump ring, bring the ends back toward each other just a bit (overlapping slightly), and release the pliers. Some metals and styles of jump rings “click” as they meet at the seam while others are silent. The audible sound alone should not be your only indicator that the ring is perfectly closed; you still must visually assess whether the seam aligns perfectly and check for any tiny visible gaps in the seam as well. A correctly closed jump ring should not look “stair stepped”, nor should one jump ring end be higher than the other, especially once it is closed with plier tips in your hand.
Many new jewelry makers struggle with the amount of pressure needed to open jump rings. They often press too hard with their pliers, leaving marks on the metal ring as a result, especially when making jump rings out of softer wire or plated metal. When the jump ring opens too much and the metal is stretched into an oval shape, the seam no longer aligns evenly and is very difficult to fix without re-shaping it into a circular ring. However, not applying enough pressure and keeping the jump ring too loose also can cause it to spin when you are trying to close it. It takes a little practice to find the right balance and steady pressure, but once you have perfected this technique, the only real pressure needed is that which allows you to close the jump ring with the front part of your plier tips (and not the full tip) for the size of the plier you are using. Keep your hands and wrists as relaxed as possible. Open the jump ring sideways, close it, and you will see that very little force is ever needed.
Once you have opened a jump ring sideways and closed it, test the jump ring on the clasp to make sure the seam of the jump ring stays perfectly closed and not stressed when the clasp moves. This is especially important with chains and other moving or adjustable jewelry parts such as earrings or bracelets. It is critical to make sure that the jump ring that is connected with a clasp, link chain, or pendant bail does not force your piece into a stressed position when it hangs or opens. This includes earrings as well; ensure that your earring wire is not forced sideways or that a pendant bail is hanging with its seam facing outward when the pendant is resting vertically. In fact, the seam and the strength and durability of your entire finished jewelry piece can be attributed to a well-closed jump ring.